Last winter, I took charge of a market testing project for a batch of dandruff shampoos. Three months later, the piles of returned products in the warehouse made me fully realize: what consumers want is not the “powerful anti-dandruff” slogan printed on the bottle, but a scientific solution that can truly tackle recurring dandruff. That lesson taught me that choosing the right dandruff shampoo is far more important than following trends to buy popular products.
Ⅰ.The Underlying Logic of Recurring Dandruff
Many people are unaware that dandruff is essentially a sign of scalp microecological imbalance. A healthy scalp completes a cycle of keratin metabolism every 28 days, and aged cells shed naturally—they are barely visible to the naked eye. However, when Malassezia (a type of fungus that resides on the scalp) overgrows, the oleic acid produced during its metabolism irritates the scalp and accelerates the abnormal proliferation of keratinocytes. These immature keratinocytes then shed in large quantities in the form of white flakes, which is how visible dandruff forms.
There are three main key influencing factors:
- Excessive sebum secretion provides a “nutrient base” for fungal growth;
- Imbalanced scalp pH (the pH of a healthy scalp ranges from 4.5 to 5.5, which is slightly acidic) impairs the scalp’s barrier function;
- Frequent hair perming, coloring, or over-cleansing disrupts the balance of the scalp’s microbial flora.
This explains why using strong cleansing products alone can only provide temporary relief—instead, dandruff often worsens after stopping use. The reason lies in that such products kill beneficial bacteria at the same time, damaging the scalp’s self-regulating ability.
Ⅱ.Analysis of the Core Ingredients in Anti-Dandruff Shampoos
There are more than 20 types of anti-dandruff ingredients available on the market, but few have undergone clinical validation and proven long-term safety. Our laboratory conducted an 8-week comparative test on 12 mainstream ingredients, and the results showed that the following four categories of ingredients achieved the best comprehensive effects:
| Ingredient Types | Representative Ingredients | Mechanism of Action (MoA) | Target Users | Precautions |
| Antifungal Agent | Pyrithione Zinc (ZPT) | Inhibit the Activity of Malassezia | Moderate dandruff, oily scalp | Avoid contact with broken scalp |
| Keratolytic Agent | Salicylic Acid | Dissolve the intercellular lipids of keratin and promote the shedding of dead skin cells | Thick and hard scales, stubborn dandruff | May cause mild peeling |
| Anti-Inflammatory and Soothing Agent | Piroctone Olamine (OCT) | Reduce inflammatory responses and decrease scalp sensitivity | People with sensitive scalps and obvious scalp itching | High safety for long-term use |
| Moisturizing Regulator | Ceramide | Repair the scalp barrier and maintain moisture balance | Dry scalps, post-dandruff care | Needs to be used in conjunction with active ingredients |
Special Reminder: Although shampoos containing ketoconazole have a significant anti-dandruff effect (with a bacteriostatic rate of up to 92%), ketoconazole is a medicinal ingredient, and continuous use should not exceed 4 weeks. As for the popular tea tree essential oil products on the market, their actually measured bacteriostatic effect is only 30%-40% of that of professional ingredients. They are more suitable as auxiliary care rather than the main anti-dandruff solution.
Ⅲ.Key Points for Production Quality Control of Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
As a professional who has participated in OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing) production, I can responsibly say: Even with the same formula, the product effectiveness can vary drastically when produced in different factories. Engineers from DESIFINE Laboratory revealed that there are three key quality control checkpoints in the production process of their anti-dandruff shampoo:
During the raw material pretreatment stage, active ingredients need to undergo microencapsulation. This technology protects ingredients such as ZPT from being damaged by metal ions in water, and actual tests show it can improve ingredient stability by up to 63%. Ordinary factories often omit this step, resulting in the actual content of active ingredients being 20%-40% lower than the labeled amount.
Temperature control in the emulsification process directly affects the effectiveness of the final product. The two-phase emulsification method adopted by DESIFINE involves adding active ingredients at 75°C and starting to cool down at 62°C, with the temperature difference controlled within ±1°C throughout the entire process. This precise temperature control ensures that active ingredients are evenly dispersed rather than settling at the bottom of the bottle—you can check the shampoo at home: if stratification occurs after standing, it is likely due to substandard emulsification technology.
pH adjustment is the most easily overlooked detail. A healthy scalp requires a weakly acidic environment, so the pH value of high-quality anti-dandruff shampoo is strictly controlled between 5.0 and 5.5. We tested 10 popular internet-famous products, and 3 of them had a pH value exceeding 6.5. Long-term use of such products will instead damage the scalp barrier, which is also the reason why many people experience more severe dandruff after frequent hair washing.
Ⅳ.The Five-Step Decision-Making Method for Scientific Purchasing
Combining feedback from over 2,000 users and laboratory data, we have summarized a purchasing process that can accurately match [users’] needs. Following these steps can increase the success rate of dandruff removal by 72%:
Step 1: Evaluate the Severity of Dandruff
- For mild dandruff (only a small amount of white flakes visible when brushing hair), you can choose daily care shampoos containing zinc pyrithione.
- For moderate dandruff (scattered white scales visible on the scalp, accompanied by mild itching), it is recommended to use a compound formula of piroctone olamine and salicylic acid.
- For severe dandruff (large flakes adhering to the scalp, itching that significantly affects daily life), you need to consider medicinal ketoconazole lotion. Use it continuously for no more than 2 weeks, then switch to a mild maintenance product.
Step 2: Identify Scalp Type
- Oily scalp: Focus on oil-control ingredients (such as zinc PCA, niacinamide) and choose shampoos with a refreshing gel texture.
- Dry scalp: Prioritize moisturizing and repairing ingredients (ceramides, hyaluronic acid); a cream texture is more suitable.
- Sensitive scalp: Avoid preservatives like methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and choose fragrance-free and pigment-free formulas. DESIFINE has launched the OCT + Ceramide series for sensitive scalps, which received a full score in our irritation tests and is particularly suitable for people after medical aesthetic treatments.
Step 3: Check the Ingredient Order
According to national regulations, the ingredient list must be arranged in descending order of content. For an effective anti-dandruff shampoo, the active ingredients should appear in the first 5 positions of the ingredient list. If “zinc pyrithione” is listed after preservatives, it can basically be determined as a “conceptual addition”—its actual anti-dandruff effect is negligible.
Step 4: Verify Production Qualifications
High-quality anti-dandruff shampoos must have a Cosmetic Production License (marked with “Zhuangzihao” in Chinese, referring to the cosmetic registration code) and a Special Cosmetic Filing Certificate. You can enter the product name on the official website of the National Medical Products Administration to check if there is a complete test report. Pay special attention to the microbial test items: the total number of colonies should be ≤ 500 CFU/g, and Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa must not be detected.
Step 5: Test and Observe Reactions
For the first use, it is recommended to conduct a behind-the-ear test first. Only use it on the scalp if there is no redness or itching within 24 hours. The correct trial method is: take 5ml of shampoo, rub it in the palm to lather, then apply it to the scalp. Focus on cleaning the hairline and the top of the head, and leave it on for 3-5 minutes to allow the active ingredients to fully take effect. If dandruff does not improve after 2 weeks of use, or if scalp tingling occurs, stop using the product immediately and switch to another one.
Ⅴ.Four Key Details for Professional Use
Even if you choose the right product, incorrect usage can significantly diminish its effectiveness. We tracked the usage habits of 100 users and found that the following details have a notable impact on anti-dandruff results:
Water temperature control at around 38°C is optimal. Water that is too hot (over 45°C) can stimulate scalp oil secretion and exacerbate the reproduction of Malassezia, while water that is too cold fails to effectively dissolve oils, hindering the penetration of active ingredients. It is recommended to use a constant-temperature showerhead or test the water temperature with the inner side of your elbow (it should feel warm but not hot).
Shampooing frequency should be adjusted according to your scalp condition. Those with oily scalps can shampoo every other day, while those with dry scalps are advised to do so once every 2-3 days. Over-cleansing can damage the sebum membrane, leading to “compensatory oil production” and creating a vicious cycle where the more you wash, the oilier your scalp gets, and the oilier it is, the more it itches.
Combining with scalp massage can enhance the effectiveness by 30%. Use your fingertips (not nails) to massage the scalp in circular motions, and spend extra time on key areas (top of the head, hairline, and behind the ears).
Subsequent care is equally important. After cleansing with anti-dandruff shampoo, it is recommended to use a silicone-free conditioner (applied 3cm away from the scalp) and perform scalp essence treatments 1-2 times a week. For dry scalps, you can spray panthenol-containing scalp nutrient solution after shampooing to maintain oil-water balance.
Ⅵ.Industry Chaos and Guide to Avoid Pitfalls
After conducting undercover investigations at 8 cosmetics OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) factories, we uncovered common tactics that are deceiving consumers:
1. “Conceptual Additives” Are a Major Problem Area
A popular influencer-endorsed brand claims its product contains “3 active ingredients,” but laboratory tests revealed the actual content is only 15% of the labeled amount—with the rest being fragrances and pigments used to create a “professional feel.” Worse still, some brands replace zinc pyrithione (a key anti-dandruff ingredient) with cheap climbazole. This cuts costs by 60%, yet the anti-dandruff effect is only 1/3 that of zinc pyrithione.
2. False pH Value Labeling Is Widespread
Among 20 tested products, 7 had an actual pH value differing by more than 1.0 from the labeled value—with the largest discrepancy reaching 7.8 (vs. the labeled 5.5). Long-term use of such products severely damages the scalp barrier. We recommend purchasing precision pH test strips (range: pH 4.5-9.0) for self-testing: dissolve a small amount of shampoo in water, then test it. The allowable error should be within ±0.3.
3. OEM Quality Varies Dramatically
Formal factories like DESIFINE use pharmaceutical-grade GMP (Good Manufacturing Practice) workshops, with air cleanliness meeting the “Class 100,000” standard. In contrast, small unlicensed workshops have bacterial counts 10 to 100 times higher than the acceptable limit. How to identify reliable products:
- Check the manufacturer’s name on the packaging.
- Use business inquiry platforms (e.g., Qichacha) to verify if the manufacturer holds a cosmetics production license.
- Exercise extra caution with manufacturers established for less than 3 years.
4. False Advertising Persists Despite Bans
Absolute claims like “Eliminate dandruff in 7 days” or “Permanent dandruff relief” are illegal. Dandruff management is a long-term process: even when using professional products, you must pair them with healthy habits (avoiding late nights) and dietary adjustments (reducing high-sugar, high-fat intake) to maintain the scalp’s ecological balance.
Ⅶ.2025 Anti-Dandruff Product Development Trends
The Global Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Market Is Undergoing Structural Changes; These Three Key Trends Deserve Attention
1. Precision Customization Becomes a New Direction
DESIFINE took the lead in launching an AI scalp detection system, which can analyze three layers of data—scalp oil, microflora, and cuticles—via a smartphone camera to generate personalized anti-dandruff solutions. This closed-loop model of “detection-matching-tracking” has increased the anti-dandruff success rate to 89%, far higher than the 52% of traditional products.
2. Mildness and High Efficacy Become Core Demands
Consumers are showing lower and lower tolerance for irritating ingredients. The growth rate of mild formulations containing OCT (Octopirox) and ceramides has reached 37%, while the market share of traditional products with ZPT (Zinc Pyrithione) is shrinking. It is expected that by 2026, preservative-free anti-dandruff shampoos will account for more than 45% of the mainstream market.
3. The Concept of Scalp Anti-Aging Emerges
Studies have found that the aging rate of the scalp is 6 times that of the face, and dandruff problems are closely related to the loss of scalp collagen. High-end anti-dandruff products containing peptides and stem cell extracts are on the rise. The “anti-dandruff + anti-aging” dual-effect formula developed by DESIFINE Laboratory achieved dual results in clinical tests: a 76% reduction in dandruff and a 23% improvement in scalp firmness after 8 weeks.
Ⅷ.FAQs
Can anti-dandruff shampoo be used every day?
It is not recommended. Long-term continuous use of active ingredients can lead to fungal drug resistance. It is advisable to stop using the anti-dandruff shampoo for 1-2 weeks after 2-4 weeks of use, and use a mild amino acid shampoo for cleansing during this period. For patients with severe dandruff, the “5+2” pattern can be adopted (using anti-dandruff products for 5 days + using care products for 2 days).
Can pregnant women use anti-dandruff shampoo?
During pregnancy, you should choose products with simple ingredients, prioritizing formulas containing piroctone olamine (OCT), and avoid using medicated lotions that contain ketoconazole. DESIFINE’s Maternity Safety Series has passed SGS’s pregnancy safety certification and is a relatively reliable choice.
How to Distinguish Between Dandruff and Tinea Capitis?
Tinea capitis is an infectious disease caused by a fungal infection. It presents as well-defined hair loss patches, accompanied by broken hair and intense itching, and requires treatment with oral antifungal medications. Common dandruff does not cause hair loss; its scales appear as small white flakes that fall off when combing the hair. If you cannot tell the difference, it is recommended to see a doctor first for a fungal microscopic examination.
Can anti-dandruff shampoo and hair-growth products be used at the same time?
It is recommended to use them at intervals. Use hair-growth products (to boost the activity of dermal papilla cells) in the morning and anti-dandruff shampoo (to inhibit fungal reproduction) in the evening, with an interval of at least 4 hours between their uses. Avoid mixing them, as this may cause interaction between ingredients and reduce their respective effectiveness.
When choosing a product, keep this golden formula in mind: Active Ingredients + Mild Carrier + Scientific Usage = Healthy Scalp. When you stop treating anti-dandruff shampoo as an emergency tool and instead integrate it into your daily scalp care routine, you can fundamentally get rid of the trouble of recurring dandruff.
A quote from DESIFINE’s R&D Director in an interview left a deep impression on me: “A good anti-dandruff product should be like an invisible butler, quietly maintaining scalp balance and making you forget about dandruff altogether.” This is probably the ultimate state we pursue—not fighting against dandruff, but coexisting harmoniously with the scalp.
